Vietnamese Vegetarian Pho

It’s a bit ironic that I’m writing this amidst the recent controversy around a brand that first introduced me to the idea of noodle soup in my childhood—Maggi, anyone? A steaming bowl of “2-minute Maggi noodles” was what I once thought Chinese noodle soup was (for lack of a better, more informed term). It was only later that I learned noodle soups went by many names—ramen, instant noodles, cup noodles. And it wasn’t until I traveled outside India that I realized how limited my view of the world and its fascinating cuisines truly was, and how noodle soup went far beyond a cup 🙂

I’m endlessly fascinated by the similarities and subtle differences in the cuisines of Southeast Asia. Over the last three years of experiencing this region and its food, the cultural interdependence is unmistakable, yet each cuisine has its own identity shaped by seasonality and the produce abundant in that region.

Noodle soup is a staple across Southeast Asia, and what amazes me is how this one-pot dish—common across so many countries—can taste so distinctly different depending on the broth. Burmese khow suey, Vietnamese pho, Japanese ramen, Malaysian and Singaporean laksa, curry noodle soup—the range is extensive, and I know I’ve only scratched the surface.

I’ve tried making vegetarian versions of several noodle soups at home, and the nuances in flavor never cease to amaze me. While the basic components—stock, noodles, meat or vegetables—may be similar, it’s the broth that truly defines each dish. Miso in Japanese cuisine, coconut milk in Burmese (and sometimes Thai) cooking, or the curry-like depth with pandan leaves in laksa—it often comes down to one ingredient that completely transforms the dish and gives it its unmistakable local character. It reinforces the idea that once, the world was one connected landmass, and as geography shifted and populations grew, so did cuisines and cultures. Fascinating, really.

Vietnamese pho (pronounced “fur,” with the “r” silent) is one dish I’ve wanted to try forever. Strangely, I hadn’t been able to find a vegetarian version in Singapore. I’m sure there are tucked-away places that offer one, but after trying at least five restaurants, I had no luck. I suppose I was meant to try it where it originated—in Ho Chi Minh City.

Our trip to Saigon last summer gave us the opportunity to explore the city’s vegetarian offerings. Our guide took us to a well-known restaurant where Bill Clinton and his family ate pho during their visit in 2000. Pho 2000, located in the heart of the city, is quite popular—touristy, yes, with plenty of Clinton memorabilia lining the walls.

This also happened to be one of the few places offering vegetarian pho, possibly to accommodate Clinton, who was vegan at the time. Regardless of the reason, this was hands down the best noodle broth I’d ever tasted. Cinnamon, cloves, onion, and ginger gave it an almost Indian-masala-like warmth, yet the broth was light and never overpowering. Paired with crunchy vegetables and flat rice noodles, it made for a deeply satisfying and wholesome meal.

I love collecting local cookbooks and spices when I travel, especially when I find vegetarian versions of regional dishes. I stash them away until the mood strikes. From Saigon’s Ben Thanh Market, I picked up Vietnamese cassia cinnamon and a pho spice mix made with cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and coriander. Still, there’s something special about making a recipe from scratch, so when I came across a recipe from The Kitchn, I knew I had to try it.

This version is a hybrid of The Kitchn recipe and the instructions on the spice mix I bought. Note: you don’t need a pre-made spice mix—this method shows you how to make it yourself.

Serves 3

Make the Broth First

Ingredients

• 1 large onion, peeled and halved
• 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and halved lengthwise
• 3-inch cinnamon stick (preferably Vietnamese cassia cinnamon)
• 2 star anise
• 4 cloves
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds
• 4½ cups unsalted vegetable stock
• 2–3 tsp soy sauce
• 4 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 2 slices green Thai chilies or serrano peppers

Method

Dry-roast the cinnamon, coriander seeds, cloves, and star anise in a flat pan until fragrant.

Grind the roasted spices into a fine powder using a coffee grinder.

Tie the powdered spices in a cotton cloth or small drawstring bag and set aside.

Char the halved onion and ginger over an open flame. Alternatively, grill or broil them until lightly charred. Set aside.

Heat the vegetable stock (I use Kallo organic veg stock cubes, but homemade stock works just as well). Add the soy sauce.

Add the charred onion and ginger to the stock, followed by the spice bag. Bring to a gentle boil.

Add the carrots and green chilies, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes.

Noodles

• ½ lb dried flat rice noodles (bánh phở), or any flat rice noodles

Cook according to package instructions and set aside.

Toppings (Optional)

• Protein: fried or baked tofu, bean curd skin, or seitan (I used tofu)
• Mushrooms: enoki or any variety
• Vegetables: bok choy, napa cabbage, broccoli (I used bok choy and broccoli)

Garnishes

• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 chile pepper (Thai bird, serrano, or jalapeño), sliced
• 1 lime, cut into wedges
• ½ cup bean sprouts
• Fresh herbs: cilantro, Thai basil
• Hoisin sauce and sriracha (optional)

Assembling the Pho

Slice and cook the tofu. Lightly steam or blanch the vegetables, keeping seasoning minimal so the broth remains the star.

Place the cooked noodles in a bowl and arrange the toppings over them.

Ladle 1 to 1½ cups of hot broth into each bowl.

Add garnishes or serve them on the side.

Enjoy piping hot.

And here’s some more food gazing from all the other vegetarian Vietnamese delicacies we enjoyed in Ho Chi Minh City. Feast on.