Contributed by Sumathi Vaidyanathan for Sumathi’s Medley.
A broth for all seasons and reasons—rasam’s versatility is second to none.
This tangy, soul-soothing staple of South Indian vegetarian cuisine has found renewed relevance in recent times, especially during the COVID-19 pandemic. While its exact effectiveness against the virus may remain unclear, there’s no denying the immune-boosting reputation of rasam’s core ingredients—black pepper, turmeric, and tamarind.
More Than Just Medicine
Rasam is more than just therapeutic. It’s deeply nourishing, familiar, and comfortingly adaptable. In my South Indian vegetarian household, it wasn’t just the second course—it was healing food, gently mixed with mashed rice to soothe the sick or rejuvenate the recovering. My grandfather often said it was ideal for digestion.
But the real magic of rasam lies not in its medicinal value—but in its flexibility.
Years ago, when I demonstrated a South Indian meal to friends, the rasam didn’t quite get the appreciation it deserved. To some, it seemed like an afterthought—a way to use up tamarind water and leftover pigeon peas from the sambar. While that may be true for a few variants, such a view doesn’t do justice to the hundreds of rasam styles available today. For the inventive cook, rasam is a playground of endless flavor possibilities.
Origins Steeped in Lore
Like many iconic Indian dishes, rasam’s beginnings are steeped in folklore. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word rasa, meaning essence. In Tamil, it’s rasam; in Kannada, saaru; and in Telugu, chaaru—all translating to the same comforting idea.
One tale dates back to 14th-century Madurai, where a royal illness prompted the creation of a healing broth made from turmeric, black pepper, curry leaves, and lime. Another story credits a vegetarian Brahmin in ancient China, who, faced with a meat-heavy culinary landscape, concocted a broth from tamarind and spices that reportedly amazed the emperor’s court.
While these stories can’t be verified, early rasams were certainly tamarind-based with black pepper as the primary source of heat. Tomatoes didn’t enter Indian kitchens until the Portuguese introduced them in the 16th century.
Food historian K.T. Achaya’s Indian Food: A Historical Companion cites Venetian traveler Niccolao Manucci, who noted South Indians “sup a concoction, which is some water boiled with pepper”—an early description of rasam.
A Broth That Binds Communities
Over time, rasam evolved into regional and community-specific varieties. Mysore rasam is known for its use of coconut; Andhra’s ulava charu is thickened with horse gram. Even meat lovers have their versions—the colonial-era mulligatawny added meat and vegetables for British tastes, and the Chettinad community crafted the iconic crab rasam, still popular in South India and Southeast Asia.
Modern restaurants like Thevar in Singapore are also experimenting, offering rasam granita over oysters—a chic twist on a traditional classic.
If you’re curious about the vast spectrum of rasams, stay tuned for Usha Prabhakaran’s forthcoming Rasam Digest, rumored to hold 1,000 variations. Prabhakaran, author of the cult-favorite Pickle Digest, is a treasure trove of culinary wisdom.
Spotlight: Kandathippili Rasam
One of my favorite family recipes is Kandathippili Rasam, made with long pepper (piper longum), known for its subtle, complex heat and medicinal benefits. This root has long been revered in Ayurveda for treating indigestion, infections, and respiratory issues.
The Tamil name breaks down as thippili (pepper) and kanda (root). It’s not just healing—it’s delicious.
How to Make Kandathippili Rasam
Ingredients (Yields ~1 Liter)
For the base:
- Lime-sized ball of tamarind (or 2 tsp tamarind paste)
- A few curry leaves
- A pinch of asafoetida (optional)
- Salt to taste
To roast and grind:
- 1 tsp ghee or oil
- 2 tsp coriander seeds
- 1 tsp Bengal gram (chana dal)
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 4 dried red chillies (adjust to taste)
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 3–4 sticks of long pepper (kandathippili)
The Tamil name breaks down as thippili (pepper) and kanda (root). It’s not just healing—it’s delicious.
For tempering:
- 2 tsp ghee or oil
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- A few curry leaves
Method
1. Roast & grind the spices:
Heat ghee in a small pan. Fry all roasting ingredients until lentils are golden. Cool and grind into a powder. Set aside.
2. Prepare tamarind water:
Soak tamarind in a cup of warm water and extract juice. If using paste, mix with 2–3 cups of water. Add curry leaves, salt, and asafoetida.
3. Boil the broth:
Add the ground spice powder. Boil until the raw aroma of tamarind and spices is gone and the liquid reduces by half.
4. Adjust consistency:
Add water to bring it back up to 1 liter and bring it to a gentle boil again.
5. Temper and finish:
In a separate pan, heat ghee until smoking. Add mustard seeds and curry leaves. When they splutter, pour over the rasam.
Serve hot with steamed rice and a spoon of ghee—or enjoy it as a standalone soup on a chilly day.
Roasting the spices in ghee and powdering them
Tamarind water and powder being boiled
Final Sip
Rasam is more than just a broth—it’s an emotion, a memory, and a healing tradition. Whether you’re craving comfort food or seeking a soothing remedy, rasam delivers every single time.
Ready to try this traditional recipe in your kitchen? Whip up a batch of Kandathippili Rasam today—and rediscover the essence of true home cooking. Share your rasam moments with us!
